Lhotse - 8516m

Destination: Everest Region
Duration : 55 days
Best Season : Mar-May

Grade : Mountaineering
Max. Altitude : 8516

Lhotse has well known as being the fourth highest mountain in the world. Lhotse is Tibetan for South Peak, due it’s location immediately south of Mt.Everest, connected to it sister giant by the South Col , a vertical ridge exceeding an elevation of 8000 m along its full length. Lhotse is a challenging and exhilarating climb, demanding a high level of both fitness and experience. Normally the ascent requires three camps for acclimatisation before reaching High Camp or Camp IV. The Lhotse route follows the Everest South Col route past the Khumbu Icefall until reaching above the Yellow Band, and then from Camp IV, follows the Lhotse Couloir, a narrow icy gully containing plenty of steep ice and rock.

Outline Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu (1350m, 4429ft). Transfer to your hotel.

Day 2: Kathmandu, official procedures visit Tourism Ministry

Day 3: Kathmandu

Day 4: From Kathmandu, flight to Lukla (2840m, 9,152ft). Trek to Phakding. (2610m, 8561ft)

Day 5: Trek to Namche Bazar (3440m, 11,283ft).

Day 6: Namche Bazar for acclimatization

Day 7: Trek to Khumjung (3780m, 12,398ft), called the green valley.

Day 8: Trek to Tengboche Monastery (3860m, 12,661ft).

Day 9: Trek to Dingboche (4410m, 14,465ft).

Day 10: Trek to Lobuche (4910m, 16,105ft).

Day 11: Rest day for acclimatization in Lobuche

Day 12: Trek to Everest/ Lhotse base camp. (5364m, 17,594ft).

Day 13-48: Climbing Period Mt. Lhotse

Day 49: Clean up Base Camp

Day 50: Trek to Pheriche. Overnight in lodge.

Day 51: Trek to Namche Bazar. Overnight in lodge.

Day 52: Trek to Lukla. Overnight in lodge.

Day 53: Fly to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel.

Day 54: Kathmandu.

Day 55: Departure from Kathmandu.

 

CLIMBING ROUTE DESCRIPTION
Lhotse climbing route via Khumbu icefall and Northwest couloir. The route is technically hard with a dangererous Khumbu icefall, crevasses and seracs bridged by ladders, couple short ice cliffs around camp 3 and rock sections protected with fixed lines. The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier compose of large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated. Before beginning climbing, Icefall doctors set the route through the icefall installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical seracs ice walls.
Camp 1 (6065m) : Located on the top of Khumbu icefall. it is a desolate and exposed place used as rest and transition location on the way to camp 2 (6750m). The glacier between camp 1 and 2 flattens but there are still large crevasses close to camp 1, which are also fixed with ladders.
Camp 2 (6800m) : Located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of west ridge, It is a very safe and sheltered location with magnificent views on Lhotse. Camp 2 is main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climb.
Camp 3 (7100m) : Located on small ledge on the Lhotse wall. One has to cross the glacier to the right side before 40degree 600m climb on the compact snow field. There will be fixed rope for support.
Camp  4 (7920m) : Located near South Col is the last camp and is easily accessible. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4, Yellow Bands, interlayer marble, phyllite and semischist rocks and Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rocks; they are again set-up with fixed ropes.
From camp 4 the route enters 500m councilors about 40deg along a mix of pack snow, ice and some rock.

Personal Belongings

- Camera, Charges, personal medical kit, ID/Passport, Dairy book, Nepalese currency etc....

Personal Trekking / Climbing Gears

- Down Suit

- Climbing Boots

- Harness

- Zummer

- Crampons

- Ice Axe

- carabineer

- Descender

- tape shilling

- fursik rope

- Helmet
- Warm Inner Cloth

- Day bag (hiking - 10-20ltrs)

- Rucksack - 45 ltr

- Gore-Tex Jacket and Trouser

- Feather jacket

- Trekking shoes

- Few Pair of warm socks

- Climbing thick gloves

- Normal gloves

- Hat/Cap

- UV polarize sun-glass

- water bottle, camel bag

- Water thermos

Cost Includes

- International Arrival and Departure

- Domestic arrival and departure

- 6 Night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (B/B plan)

- Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu flight ticket

- Trekking lodge and accommodation during Lukla - EBC- Lukla

- Climbing Guide

- climbing Sherpa (1:1 person)

- 1 person 1 Tent 

-  Full camping support in Lhotse base camp and  camp 1, 2, 3 ,4 

- High Foods and tent

- cook , kitchen boy and other service crew

- Lhotse Climbing Permit

- 5 Oxygen bottle and regulator mask

- Liaison Officer 

- 30 kg baggage transport service to/from  basecamp

- Group climbing gears (fix rope, ice bar, ice screw, rock piton etc)

- Insurance for sherpa and crew

Cost Excludes

- personal climbing gears

- SAT phone, Radio communication and Filming permits

- insurance (rescue, medical)

- climbing bonous 

- extra personal member baggages 

- customs and duty as applicable for expedition equipments in Nepal

- Food in Kathmandu

- Drinks and beverages

- Staff tips

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