Duration : 30 days
Best Season : Mar-May ; Sep-Nov
Grade : Technical
Max. Altitude : 6812m
Ama Dablam has an impressive reputation as one of the most aesthetically beautiful mountains in Nepal, and as one of the most challenging for mountaineers. It lies at a relatively modest elevation compared to some other popular expedition peaks; however climbing Ama Dablam requires advanced technical skills and experience and is considered a milestone-like challenge for any mountaineer wanting to make their mark in mountaineering. Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace” and refers to the long ridges on each side of the mountain resembling the arms of a mother (ama) embracing her child, and the hanging glacier as the dablam, a traditional necklace worn by Sherpa women. The common route to the summit is via the south ridge, the high flanks being very exposed with both rock and ice climbing becoming increasingly technical toward the sharp summit.
Day 01 : Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla & trek to Phakding
Day 02 : Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m) .
Day 03 : Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatisation.
Day 04 : Trek from Namche Bazaar to Pangboche
Day 05 : Trek from Pangboche to Amadablam base camp
Day 06 -22 : Climbing period (base camp (4600 m): /high camp (5400 m): /camp I (5800 m): /Camp II (6000 m):/ Camp III (6300m): /Summit)
Day 23 : Trek from Amadablam base camp to Tyangboche
Day 24 : Trek from Tyangboche to Namche
Day 25 : Trek from Namche to Lukla
Day 26 : Fly to Kathmandu from Lukla, transfer to hotel, Victory Dinner
Day 27 : Departure or connect to other trip
Mountaineers usually have to pitch 3 high camps on the mountain of Ama Dablam 6812 m.
To reach the first camp from base camp, the climbers have to pass through the tough and difficult saddle ridges; then turn northwards climbing up through rocky ground and boulders to arrive at Camp I.
From Camp I - one has to cross the rocky bowl and should climb the ridge via the fixed lines to Camp II. From Camp II, crossing over several rocks and ridges which lead to Camp II.
The climbing route from Camp II is mostly steep mixed alleyways of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to a steep climb to snowy ground and then passes through steep snow and ice tunnels before finally continuing along the snowy ridge to Camp III.
From here to the summit, it is a steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier. From the top of Ama Dablam you can enjoy fantastic views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Island Peak, Makalu, Khumbu Himalayan and rest of the snowcapped surrounded mountains.
- Camera, chargers, personal medical kit, ID/passport, diary/notebook, Nepalese currency etc....
Personal Climbing Gear:
- Down suit
- Sport climbing boots
- Technical ice axe
- Tape shilling
- Fursik rope
- Helmet- Warm Inner base layers
- Day bag (hiking - 10-20L)
- Ruksack - 45 - 65L
- Gore-tex jacket and trouser
- Feather/down jacket
- Trekking shoes
- Several pair of warm socks
- Thick climbing gloves
- Normal gloves
- UV polarised sunglasses
- Water bottle, camelbak
- Water thermos
- International arrival and departure
- Domestic arrival and departure
- 3 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (B/B plan)
- Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu flight ticket
- Lukla - Ama Dablam BC and return trekking (food and lodge accommodation)
- Base camp support
- Climbing guide
- Tent service and full camping support in base camp and high camp
- Food and tent
- cook, kitchen boy and other service crew
- Ama Dablam climbing permit
- Group climbing gear (fix rope, ice bar, ice screw, rock pitten etc)
- Liaison officer
- Insurance for sherpa and crew
- Personal climbing gear
- Oxygen and regulator mask (emergency support purpose)
- Insurance (rescue, medical)
- Food in Kathmandu
- Drinks and beverages
- Staff tips